Timberline to Santium pass

So once again we got caught up in the vortex and got sucked in to stay the night at Timberline.
We met a couple Don and Tammy who told us tales of how they met on the trail some years ago + subsequently got hitched and had a large family.
They also claimed they had met a “real” trail angel, apparently warning them not to not hike up a certain mountain.  After spending a few days in each others company both parties separated with a group photo being taken. When Don and Tammy developed the film the mysterious trail angel previously present in all the photos was nowhere to be seen. Sarah felt a cold shiver.
These days trail angels help support hikers providing rides or leaving a chest of ice cold sodas on the trail. If you are very lucky you may even get a hot dog or burger cooked for you. But what the couple described was another level indeed. We wondered if that’s where true name trail angel originated from?

We pitched our tent at the foot of Mt Hood in the sand in a cluster of trees just up from the lodge. This was a stunning campsite and it felt like we were in the desert. The wind was blowing sand around, so we lined rocks and branches around the footprint of our tent to help offer some form of protection.

Before bed we went back to the lodge. We ordered 2 beers, 2 bowls of hearty soup and toasted sandwiches for an eye watering 70 bucks.

Day 45 – Tues Aug 9th
Timberline lodge – Horse camp
555.6 – 579.3
23.6 Miles

Back in the game and feeling great. What a beautiful morning!
Any lack of motivation after starting back on trail seemed to be erased.
After nearly getting caught by another hiker whilst taking a poop, we left Timberline we hiked through beautiful sand dunes, kicking up plumes of sand as we went.
We have never before seen a combination of sand and mountain such as this + combined with pretty bright flower in grasses it made for some interesting hiking.

We were heading downhill for most of the morning, although the sand was not easy to hike through + would penetrate our trail runners – slowing us down. So much so that we would have to take regular pit stops to empty our shoes.
The landscape leading up to Mt Hood had been carved by huge glaciers. This left deep ravines either side of the trail, lined with sand and suspended rocks.
We found footprints and evidence of other critters in the sand, leaving us clues as what might live out here.
I have attached the pic below, but so far no one has managed to identify what it could be. My thoughts are that it could be a snake, millipede or scorpion.
We have seen a good number of small snakes on trail so far, but I am hoping that we get to see a rattle snake before our time is done.
I will be very interested in sloving this puzzle so 1st prize to anyone that can help.

Time flies when you are having fun and so much seems to happen in just one day out here. Not too long into the day and we were back into the deep cover of the woods.
We had heard rumours of trail magic just down the trail and as we reached the trail head we were greeted by trail angel “Young Heart” and some ice cold sodas. Much appreciated!
We were both shocked and surprised by some of the other hikers, who seemed happy to take the trail magic, but less inclined to engage and offer their gratitude. We both felt that maybe it was a generation thing (Youth of today),  or maybe this group of nobos needed to learn some manners.
One nobo in particular really got my goat.  Claiming that the had passed 15-20 sobos each day for the last couple of days and that it was “annoying” 
This guys eyes were far to close together to be taken seriously, but the trail should be for everyone in my books. Secondly this pip squeak of a nobo had flipped up past the Sierras and was technically hiking this part of the trail much earlier than he should be, ultimately leading to more congestion.
To conclude both northbounders and southbounders are also naturally gonna cross paths at some point, so my thoughts were this young gun needed to wind his neck in fast.
Just as were leaving the trail magic our pal Zac (Aka Aquaman) cruised in and grabbed himself a Schmironoff Ice.
We later hiked together for around 5-7 miles and with good conversation the day passed very quickly.
Aquaman is a farmer by trade and helped provide an insight into farming practices and the organic movement that seems so prevalent out here on the west coast.
We also discussed the obvious changes in trail in Oregon, since encounterinng the earlier open expanses and views in Washington.
Orgeon is renownded for being more of a green tunnel experience. I expressed my concerns about the lack of these sweet vistas and whether we would find this section as interesting and appealing.  We concluded this is a mindset thing and beauty can still be seen all around us on perhaps more of a macro lens scale. 
We would later find that any worries or concerns were not to be an issue as Oregon offers a diverse and interesting landscape full of interesting scenery and changes in landscape.

We took a short side trail to check out Little Crater Lake. This was totally worth it and as we approached we could see the small lake was pristine aquamarine. The colour due to it being fed by a natural spring deep below. It was stunning and as  swimming was prohibited it took some will power not to just jump in.
By around 5pm we had covered 18 miles and we parted company with Aquaman at Timothy Lake. Sarah and I were desperately in need of a wash / swim and this large expanse of water ticked all the boxes.
With Ospreys calling and circling overhead and motorboats and paddle boats bobbing slowly across the lake this made for a great place to stop.
A log also offered a good place to also sit and dip our feet, stretching out into the lake.

We dropped our packs and in no time I was chest deep in the lake fishing for Trout.  Not too long later my efforts rewarded by a wild trout, around 6-7 inches in length and much more silver in colour.
The only let down with this “more popular” lake was the impact of human presence. It seems not everyone repects the leave no trace protocol and on leaving this idilic spot we spotted some tissue papers not far from where we had bathed. Great!
We hiked on as the afternoon turned into evening and the cooler temperatures made for some great hiking.
Earlier in the day one of the nobos had recommended a Horse camp as a decent place to rest our bones for the night.
As it says on the tin this was a more official campsite that allowed you to coral horses overnight.  It also had a pit toilet, bench and trash can so was a no brainer.
Although the hiking has been great so far in Oregon you definitely feel less of the “wilderness exerience” There seems to be more trail head access points into the mountains and day trippers are more common.
With the occasional sound of a car, motor boat or even plane crossing the bluebird sky, it is a stark contrast to the solitude we encountered in Northern Washington.
We ate a Knore rice side with chicken. Crickets chirping in the background.
After setting everything up in the dark we discovered the ground beneath our tentsite was covered in series of knobbley roots. Down to just one inflatable mattress (that is more forgiving on this type of terrain) we had to be a little creative with our sleeping arrangements to ensure we had a comfortable night’s sleep.

Day 46 – Wed Aug 10th
Horse camp – Ollallie lake resort
579.3 – 606.9
27.4 Miles

The Horse camp was occupied with a couple of other thru hikers and a number of somewhat noisey car campers.
At 5am our alarm sounded and Sarah and I quietly packed our home back into our backpacks. The car campers however seemed to have no comprehension of trail etiquette, noisily opening and closing car doors as they packed up.

The day started with a bit of a climb and after 9-10 miles we stopped at Warm Spring River. A site Aquaman had planned on staying last night.
We rustled up a lunch of cous cous and chicken which is a new addition to the trail kitchen. It worked well and provided us with a lot of firepower for the rest of the afternoon.
During this break a couple of other hikers rolled in and joined us.
Lisa (Aka Big Daddy), Jye  (Aka Tit punch)
We had been leap frogging one another since starting the trail. Since Timberline we also seemed to be hiking at a similar rate.
As they moved on another member of their crew Mavrick (a true sobo) rolled in and told is a funny tale of how he had been royally stitched up by his hiking buddies.
Jye and Lisa had hatched a plan with nobos. They had exchaanged intel on Mavrick who was a little further down the trail. The plan being when their paths crossed they could pretend to know him. Poor Mav fell hook line and sinker.

We hiked with Mavrick for a while before meeting up with the others. We hatched a plan to get to Ollalie Lake before 19:30 to grab an alcoholic beverage from the store. This involved some seriously fast hiking covering 13 miles as fast as we could.
As we approached the resort with only minutes to spare, we hiked through some of the freshest burn zones we had seen to date. Interesting the scenery was stunning, like nothing we had ever seen and almost subterranean. The charred remains shining in the sun with the texture of crocodile skin.

This day proved to be our most productive days hiking to date. Starting at 07:20 and hiking to 19:20, covering serious miles and still getting to camp when the sun was shining. Sarah very pleased with the days progress!

The small store was located right next to the lake, with Mt Jefferson looming in the background.  It was a real tradegy to see the remains of the Lionsheart fire in 2021 and try and picture what this place once was.
After purchasing some overpriced beverages (Hard lemonade and Hazy IPA’s) we sat with the other familiar faces. Aquaman had also rolled in earlier along with another hiker called “Local”
As we relaxed a couple invited us all up to their cabin for ribs and tacos. It was a great evening as we all sat round a picnic table and feasted, hatching plans for the coming days and beyond.
After making too much noise and getting told off by the neighbouring cabin we all retreated to our tents, some of us a little more inebriated then others….

One confession on my part. Although I might not have been the drunkest of the party. Somehow I had managed to clean my teeth with athletes foot cream instead of toothpaste. Under the red light of my head torch certain colours seem get filtered or changed, which lead to the confusion. That’s my excuse anyway. Lesson learnt there…

Day 47 – Thurs Aug 11th
Ollallie lake resort – Tensite n pond near Woodpecker ridge
606.9 – 624
17 Miles

It was a later start than planned and Sarah had a rather sore head.
As we grabbed a hot drink and sugary morning treat from the store, we took in views of Mt Jefferson which sat proud on the horizon above the lake.

Starting late in this exposed section without the protection from the tree cover above proved to be draining and was a stark contrast to yesterday, which had gone so well.
As we hiked away from the Ollalie resort (a lake side retreat with small wooden holiday cabins around the lake) we could clearly see the devastation. The lions head fire had ripped through this area taking no prisoners + only the area around the resort seemed to have been saved.
Crickets bounced off our bodies and packs as we hiked. Apart from the fresh sprigs of vegetation + occasional bird, these seemed to be the most abundant type of life here amongst the charred remains.
We were informed by another hiker that it was likely that most of the investment from the fire crew had been spent on saving the area around the resort.
Forsaking the surrounding forest land.
It was also interesting to hear how the old native Indians had used to perform controlled burns to keep the forest in better order.
Doing this more regularly and in a more controlled fashion prevents that the build up of excess tinder on the forest floor. This is something that helps accelerate the progress in which a fire can spread.

Removing tall overhead tree cover also allows more light to reach the forest floor allowing for more diversity and a richness of smaller more vibrant vegetation.

At various stages along the trail we also witnesses different levels of burn. This varied from mild burn zones to total devastation where only small charred tooth pick like trees remained.
We questioned why this might be the case. Possibly certain areas were more exposed to the wind being funnelled through the mountains. Or perhaps it was a burn zone that had been reignited once again at a later date?
The ground littered with dark ash and tree bark which seemed to be almost peeled away from the tree trunks, like the skin of a banana.
Sarah told me that she had laid her hand against one of the trees almost wanting to feel its pain.
Dust was a big factor throughout the day, which was either picked up by the wind or by our feet as we hiked on. Sarah opted for the shades and bandana look to help keep it under controlled. At the end of the day my nose was clogged with dusty deposits and our bodies covered.

By lunchtime we had only covered 9 miles and the conditions were much harder.
We stopped at a small lake to eat and clean off. Grass hoppers everywhere.
Before long our solice was broken with the company of other hikers. I awkwardly had strip and clean off and we both felt our privacy had been compromised.

After lunch the scenery became even more stunning. Sarah’s mood lifting and a smile returning to her little face.  As we submitted the 1st big climb into Mt Hood wilderness we were rewarded with stunning views of Mt Jefferson. The mountain almost hitting you square in the face.
Far out provides a map as well as elevation profile. From this we could see that we had wandered off trail. I think we must have followed a trail down to a water source. Either way it involved us retracing our steps, climbing back up some steep terrain.
Once back on track we had a nice section of downhill which made for a nice change of pace.
As we collected water we were joined with another fresh faced sobo. A French girl called Mango. She had said she relished these downhill sections, showing off her huge calve muscles. Almost like an apple had been somehow been put beneath her skin.
Some of the hikers we have met have seriously impressive leg muscles putting mine and Sarahs to shame.
After a late portion of oatmeal (with added fresh locall sourced blueberries) we pushed on. Despite the temptation of calling it a night at Russle lake. We had miles to make.
We passed a fiercely flowing glacial creek where the water was chalk coloured and fast flowing.
Before the day was done we had a sketchy water crossing to address. Other hikers we passed had crossed with varying levels of success. Some with wet feet.
At this stage of the day we wanted to avoid getting wet toes and managed to rock hop across the angry creek. I escaped a wet foot, Sarah not so lucky.
We hiked on until sunset and luckily pitched our tent in one of the only remaining spots in the middle of a burn zone by a small pond.
Going to bed filthy dirty after all the dust of the day it felt ery sleeping here.
We slept with the vestibule doors open so that we could look out at the stars above. It was quite a display and I watched them shining down on us until my eyes closed shutting down for the night.

Day 48 – Fri Aug 12th
Tensite n pond near Woodpecker ridge to tensite near 3 fingered Jack
624 – 646.1
22.1 Miles

We slept soundly and on waking up Sarah said that she could smell and taste the ash for the burn zone all around us.
Berries seem much more prevalent here. Even though the conditions are much drier. Our theory is that it could be that the smaller bushes have more sunlight without the tree cover overhead. Or perhaps it is down to the reduction in wildlife? Chipmunks and birds seem less common here and they seem to have a taste for berries.

In places it is beginning to feel more autumnal. With dry leaves starting to turn more of a russet brown + a familiar autumn smell filling the air.
As the morning progressed we exitted the burn zone and we were once back under the cover of the forest. Although we faced a long 4.5k – 6k climb it was bliss and the cooler temperatures helped propel us both down the trail.
We stopped for our 2nd breakfast at Shale lake, where we were joined by a somewhat over confident young hiker. Lets leave it at that for now.
The miles and the smiles were back on today and by lunchtime we had clocked up 14 miles. Stopping at Rock pile lake for a portion of ramen noodles.
The afternoon involved more exposed terrain. The ground made up of ash and volcanic sand and littered with fallen trees.
In places it was just like an obstacle course. Sarah joking that it was like a giant had thrown a bowling ball, knocking the trees over like skittles. The decaying charred remains with there concentric annular rings crumbling into bricketts.

With the sides of the trail lined with blueberries (Aka slow me downs) in conjunction with the obstacles slowed things  right down again.
Today also offered glimpses of the different stages of how a landscape recovers from fire. With pine and spruce trees of different heights and densities lining the sides of the trails.
This new growth was quite the contrast to some of the more dead looking ancient forest we had hiked through between Trout lake and Cascade locks.
We questioned at what stage do the small creatures decide to come back as we could hear familiar squeaks of small rodents called Piquers echoing around the mountains.

Water was again becoming scarce in this last section and we stopped at a pond to stock up for the night. Comments in the FarOut App had warned of an over familiar squirrel and deer robbing hikers of food. As we dropped our packs they were surrounded by wasps, intent on extracting whatever salts or moisture present.
Right on schedule the deer also made an appearance, but was soon ushered away by Sarah school teacher ferocity.
The last part of the day involved hiking towards a mountain called 3 Fingered Jack. Its name must be because of jagged little stone turetts that make up its silhouette.

Around sunset we sumitted the pass at 3 fingered Jack and found ourselves a nice sheltered tensite for the night.
The sand under our feet black and volcanic.
As we set the tent up we watched the sun dropping below the horizon and lighting up the sky red and pink.
Most hikers heading south would have pushed onto Santium pass to get to a trail town called Sisters. Most nobos would have also passed this site by as it was only 7 miles in from the trailhead.
Sarah rustled up a tasty chicken and chorizo jambalaya and we had this stunning place all to ourselves for the night.

Day 49 – Sat Aug 13th
Tensite near 3 fingered Jack – Santium pass – Sisters
646.1 – 653.3
7.2 Miles

The wind had once again dropped for the night and we both had a good night’s sleep.
As we were packing up a couple of nobos hiked past, claiming to have seen mountain goats on the side of the mountain about a mile away.

We had seen mountain goats on day 1 in Mazama. However this fresh sighting was music to our ears and I could hardly wait to leave camp. Stopping regularly to scope out the mountains for any signs.

Right on cue there they were in all there glory. Around 30 of them moving along the side of 3 Fingered Jack. We both dropped our packs and moved closer for a better look. They clocked our advances but seemed not to be bothered. These guys are truly impressive and have to endure some serious conditions throughout the year. There front legs longer than the back and there shoulders strong to help propell them up and down the mountains.

After all that excitement we carried on down the mountain to the highway. Our plan was to get a hitch from Santium pass to Sisters. Grab a burger and milkshake and then maybe try and get on trail that same day.
It was a very easy hitch and within minutes we had 2 cars stop and offer rides. We felt obliged to jump in the back of a pick up as this was the most straight forward.
Thanks for Mat (Paz) and Vicky for stopping. Vicky joined us again in Sisters kindly insisting on buying us all milkshakes. She was also an experienced traveller and hiker + her daughter had completed the triple crown – all 3 of the long distance US hikes. Very impressive.

Before long we saw a few other familiar faces in town and our plans for a quick in and out were scuppered.
It was great to see all the crew once again and enjoy all Sisters had to offer.
Our arms twisted by Anton we even went to watch the movie Barbie. Terrible I know, but we were all pleasantly surprised.
Sisters is a bigger version of Hood River and is full of cool shops and restaurants. We ate at a place called the Barn, which had food trucks selling street food in the garden out back. With music playing and beers flowing it made for an excellent night.

Day 50 – Sun Aug 14th
Sister  Zero day.

I write this update from a quite corner of laundrette, our electrical devices all charging and laundry under control. I guess they call this multi tasking.

We plan to get back on trail either later tonight or early next morning. With a 20 mile hitch we will need to keep our fingers crossed. Athough so far people have been only too friendly and keen to help our plight.
The next section is called lava rocks and is meant to be tough. Very rocky and very exposed.
We also have a food box to collect from Big Youth Camp in around 6 miles. Apparently there’s trail magic just before and the host is making burgers. Hopefully that should see us through nicely.

Anyway. Thats all folkes. Good night and God bless for now.