Santium pass – Shelter cove

Current mileage 747.6
Shelter cove

Day 51 – Mon Aug 14th
Sisters – Santium Pass – Tensite b4 Lava field Little Bellnap Junction

653.3-667.2
13.9 miles

So yes we stayed another night….

Anyways back in business after Mat (Paz) and his good lady who kindly gave us a ride back to the trail.
We are in the middle of a heat wave and it read 33 degrees on my watch as we said our goodbyes and hit the trail.
Within only 3 miles we were greeted by some serious trail magic. A guy called “Magic Mike” had set up stall, offering cold drinks and even burgers to any lucky hikers passing through.
He had been stationed there for the last week and claimed that there had been up to 100 hikers present in just 1 day. Providing all of this just out of the goodness of his heart. It must have cost him a fortune, but he seemed only too pleased to meet us and welcome us in.
After chatting for an hour or so we were back on trail heading to Big Youth Camp where we had sent another resupply box.
Big Youth Camp was a kids summer camp and exactly what you would expect.
After unboxing our food resupply Sarah gave me a quick make over. Cutting my hair and beard whilst we tried to wait out the heat of the day.
Around 4pm we left and were straight into a 1k elevation climb into the Mt Washington wilderness.
There had been some wild fires on the other side of the Ridge burning in southern Oregon. Smoke filled the air and it made for some hard hiking. Sarah and Anton were wearing buffs over there faces, but this was simply too claustrophobic for me, in this kind of heat.
As we approached the lava fields the terrain became almost moon like.
Walking on the lava rocks can only be compared to walking on the charcoal brickets you might find in a BBQ. Our poor trainers were getting torn up and it was almost too easy to roll an ankle.
At 9pm we opted to pull in before entering the main part of the lava field. This was a good shout, as there was absolutely nowhere to pitch a tent in this inhospitable terrain.
We pitched our tent in volcanic sand with views of Mt Washington, whilst Anton bravely opted to cowboy camp.
Water had been a problem all day and as we made our dinner we had to ration our supplies.

Day 52 – Tues Aug 15th
Tensite b4 Lava filed Little Bellnap Junction
– Tensite near Pond
667.2 – 687.7
20.4 miles

I woke up at 3am thirsty. The limited water we had left not seeming to quench my thirst.
Sarah and I left camp after watching the sunrise at around 7am. Smoke still filled the air and created a very atmospheric haze as we entered the lava field. It was like nothing either of us had ever seen before. The mountains called the 3 Sisters seemed to just float above a sea of cloud and haze.
As we clumsily weaved our way through the lava it was already feeling hot, the lava rocks hard on our feet. If you tripped and fell here it would hurt as the rocks were coral like and razor sharp.
As we exitted the lava field we were back into sweet cool forest. It was such a relieve to be temporarily back walking on the cushioned pine needle covered floor of the forest and a welcome break from the lava rocks. The air was cool and alive with the sound of insects buzzing around once again.
As we reached Mckenzie pass we reached a water cache. This was a god send and a big thank you to the kind trail angel that had left us this valuable water supply.
As we poured the precious water into our water bottle wasps buzzed around us, also desperately thirsty.
Following our 2nd breakfast oatmeal snack we were again joined by Anton. The 3 of us hiked together for the rest of the day. The next 7 miles were again through more lava, but this time in the middle of the day. Sarah and I opted for the sun umbrellas which were a godsend.
Again the smoke was bad + combined with the mid day heat made for a challenging day. We longed for the cool freshness of Washington once again.
After making very slow progress only covering 7 miles we stopped at Mattieu Lake we all decided to take a quick dip.
The lake water also now luke warm, no longer as refreshing as the icey cold spring water we had seen at the start of the trail.
The smoke in the air obviously reduces the amount of oxygen and makes you feel lethargic, so this was a welcome wake up call.
The afternoon promised more up and downs so we hatched a plan to meet Anton later and hike into the early evening and take our time. Its all about smelling the roses after all + Sarah and I enjoyed a bit of time together.
Although the smoke blocked the views of the 3 Sisters we hiked through meadows, across sandy stretches interrupting feeding deer as we hiked in the cooler evening air.
The landscape was still otherworldly and we started to see broken bits of a flint like rock called obsidian in amongst the sand.
As we hiked we bumped into a fellow brit who had moved to the US. We talked about the fires on the west coast and he thought that in 40-50 years there wouldn’t be much left. Most being either burnt, burning, or in some stage of regrowth. He also said that the fires generate there own weather systems and often you can see thunder storms brewing over the top as the fires rage. This self perpetual system is bad news as lightening is one of the main causes of the fires.
Around 8:15 we arrived at the lake, both with the taste of smoke in our mouths.
Anton had been there for an hour and straight away showed us to a sweet camp spot he had left for us.
We pitched our tent in the sand by the pond and fixed ourselves a double dinner. We were both super hungry as the day had taken its toll.
As we washed off the dust and dirt in the pond that had collected on our arms and legs throughout the day, we saw frogs and salamanders swimming unbothered in front of us.

Day 53 – Wed Aug 16th
Tensite near Pond – Dumbell Lake Tensite
Via Elk lake resort. (2.4 miles detour)
687.7 – 707
21.8 miles

We found out from Valentine that there had been rain further down the trail. This seemed to have cleared some of the smoke and smog from the air. As we peered out of the tent doors we could see the 3 Sisters looking back at us, with the sun lighting up the mountains in all their glory.

As we put on our hiking armour for the day we both smelt like bonfires.
Sarah set off well today with the promise of an Elk burger at Elk Lake resort, later that afternoon. It was hard to keep up with her and she looked strong, sun tanned, like a goddess of the mountains striding off in front of me.
Around lunch time we arrived at Sister Mirror lake. After eating we applied a fresh coat of bug spray and sun cream. We explored the peninsula and discovered a great spot for a swim. Later in the day we both regretted not going for a dip in the aqau marine lake. Lessons to be learnt here. Always have a decent look around before committing to a lunch or tentsite and applying bug and sun protection.
The peninsula was shaded and rocks lined the shore making for easy access to the cool refreshing water.
The climb that followed was hard and long and we both felt drained after around 10 minutes of climb. If only we had gone for that power dip we would have been fresh and revitalised.
A combination of the heat wave and smokey air seemed to make everything much harder. It defintely seemed easier to smash out a 20 miler in Washington where the elevation and terrain was way harder.
As we reached the top of the climb and taking a look at the Far Out app, there were tales of a mountain lion living up here. One hiker reported fresh tracks in the sand around their tent + a mountain lion sitting watching in the bushes as they took a midnight pee.
The mosquitos were also starting to get bad once again. Oregon is renownded for bad “skeeters” in July following the normal snow melt, but somehow this year up until now we had avoided them. Northbounders had warned that they were so bad that some had even thought about leaving the trail. So for now we were keeping our fingers firmly crossed that we had dodged them.
We also noticed swarms of small bugs that would sit just above the trail, almost parting like a pair of curtains as we hiked through. Wasps darting in and out like jet fighters picking them off one at a time.

Around mid afternoon we reached the side trail to Elk Lake resort. It was a 1.2 mile detour from the PCT, but promised nachos and burgers and ice cold sodas, so was a no brainer.
This place was a bit like a Hardwick park, just bigger. It had a club house and a huge lake with expensive looking boats bobbing about in it.
As we ate fat chipmunks scurried around our feet obviously very familiar with eating the scraps that hungry guests leave behind.
We also made sure we went for a dip in the huge lake. Mayflies bobbed up and down all around us as we swam.
We left Anton at the resort as he had wanted to attempt a 40-50 mile day the following day as the conditions we flatter.
After refuelling and endulging in some additional ice cream and soda we hiked on reluctantly left this oasis behind. Both not relishing the sandy uphill climb out of Elk Lake back onto the trail.
Our secret weapon was a bottle of Doctor pepper + was the light at the end of the rainbow as we left the side trail and got back onto the PCT.  There was no point wasting the fresh calories we had just added on this uphill back to the trail after all.
We hiked in silence both hoping to see some evening wildlife, but to no avail. Well apart from a deer feeding on some blueberries and a chipmunk or two skidding about the trail like cars out of control.

With head torches blazing we hiked on until around 9:30. The air filled with the sound of the evening orcestra of crickets chirping, replacing the sounds of the day.
The red light mode on our head torches definitely seems to attract less bugs, even if it does seem to filter out certain colours, as sarah later realised when doing some camp chores. I think she now can see why I may have made that mistake when cleaning my teeth with foot cream ( see ollalie thread for reference).

Both tired we pitched our tent in the darkness on a peninsula next to Dumbell lake. With just glimses of the lake below Sarah made a hot cup of sweet apple cider, a powered drink with zero alcohol, just lots of sugar.  We drank it so fast it hurt as we were both exhausted and just wanted to call it a day.

Day 54 – Thurs Aug 17th
Dumbell Lake Tensite – Irish Lake tensite
707- 723.6
16.6 miles

It rained during the night and this time it was overhead. It was reassuring to hear the raindrops on the sanctuary of or tent. After burning the candle at both ends we got up late and broke camp at around 9:15.
The rain had cooled things down a little and the smoke had gone.
As we set off for the day we met a section hiker (trail name simply “Dave”) who worked for the forestry commission. He also echoed the idea that the forest land was extremely fragile.  Likely to all turn into dessert along the west coast as a result of the continual relentless wildfires. Dave described a wildfire to the sound of a jet engine as it ripped through the forest claiming everything in its path.
He also told us of an apocalyptic burn zone that we would walk through and how it made him feel super sad and emotional.

We stopped at Horse shoe lake for a quick pit stop. Sarah picking wild blueberries for our morning oatmeal. All was good in the world, although as the heat soon returned and after a 8 mile climb Sarah and I were feeling irritable and tired once again. I think this was also compounded by the dwindling food supplies, which we were reminded about as we stopped for lunch by a tanin coloured pond.
The insects seem to have it in for me today and a wasp aggressively stung me multiple times on the back of the leg, which had me hopping like a mad man down the trail.

After hiking past many lakes and ponds exhausted we stopped at Brahama lake. We figured a quick dip and cous cous power up would set the world straight.
As I swam I was harassed by territorial biting flies, much bigger than a horse fly and far more ferocious.
Refreshed we pushed on and we hiked on until just before the start of the apocalypse. This went on for the next 6 miles and we both didn’t fancy pitching the tent in ash remains.
The tensite was private and secluded although we could still hear the groans of another hiker who had pitched up further up from us. God only knows what he was doing…
We looked out over the lake we enjoyed cups of hot chocolate before bed. Waterproofs and bug nets now essential to keep the buzzing mosquitos at bay.

Day 55 – Fri Aug 18th
Irish Lake tensite – Lower Rosary Lake
723.6 – 743.5
19.7 miles

After an earlier finish last night this seemed to do Sarah the world of good. She was like a well oiled machine packing up and even ready before me.
We collected luke warm lake water and headed out into the burn zone.
The area that we were about to walk through had only happened last year, so was the freshest we had seen to date. You could smell the ash even before we reached the burn zone and it wasn’t long before we were hiking through the charred remains.
It truly was devastating and although sad, it made for some very interesting scenery.
As we had started early the sun was still low in the sky. Any smoke that remained seem to add atmosphere to the bluebird sky and pinks of the sunrise.
There was almost zero life that remained as we entered the centre of the inferno.
Even the mosquitos had subsided.
Just a few sprigs of green in the form of small plants that had somehow survived. Maybe seeds had blown in by the wind or had been carried by birds in there droppings.
We have been told that some pine trees need fire for the seed cones to open, but this was something else.
A Woodpecker hammered like a machine gun pecking against a tree in the background, making it feel more like a war zone.
Fallen trees burnt out littering the floor, it was possible to try and work out which tree had fallen 1st.
The charred remains offering a contrast to the sand and ash with charcoals and russet browns.
It was sad to see the footprints of a solitary deer in the sand still searching for food + we both questioned how much of the wildlife maybe have been killed and how much had escaped the blaze.
After spending about 3 hours trying to capture the ironic beauty and devastation we hiked onto Charlton Lake. Just a few miles out of the burn zone this lake was a welcome sight for sore eyes.
It was nice to see families on vacation floating around the lake in float tubes and dingys. Sarah warmed bagels on my stove and I went into the lake upto my waist and started fishing. Larger fish jumping all around, but somehow not interested in my fly.
Refreshed we hiked on. The plan was to try and get as close to Shelter cove as possible, which was another 18 miles ahead. This involved a series of hot and strenuous up and downs and after another 8 miles we took a short side trail to Bobby lake for another dip and power up.
We seem to be getting better at getting to a lake and just stripping off and jumping straight in + with tired legs its amazing how much this revitalises you.
We cooked instant mash and chorizo as we had run out of the usual snacks.
We also met some locals that seemd to have a negative opinion on thru hikers. Blaming the film Wild and its popularity for some of the trash and mess that is left on the trail. I replied that most of the people we hike with have a strict leave no trace policy and we seem to being seeing casual trail users being more of a problem.
It wasn’t long after we got back on trail that another wasp got me right around the ankles as I walked past a nest close to the forest floor. They always seem to go for me in the same place… WHY….
We have hiked past wasp nests before and had issues, but I think this one had been disturbed by some hikers heading the opposite way to us, just before we passed.

We stopped briefly at a wooden ski cabin called thr Maiden Peak shelter. Where I played swing ball with a biting fly and my baseball camp. It takes some co-ordination and I was never good at swingball, but I am glad to say that I got this biting fly real good!

We hiked on to Lower Rosary Lake. A series of 3 lakes right next to a rocky outcrop. We pitched up on the 3rd and final lake as we had ran out of steam, leaving just 4 miles to Shelter Cove.
We passed another hiker who was settled in for the night. We had heard about fire closures further down the trail and this nobo gave us some valuable intel on how we could get round the fire, once we reach Ashland.
The PCT is renownded for these kind of logistic issues and I think this is something that we are just gonna have to embrace. Maybe we will be lucky and not need to skip or maybe we won’t, but it definitely pays to be prepared and know what to do in this situation.

Day 56 – Sat Aug 19th
Lower Rosary Lake – Shelter Cove
743.5 – 747.6
3.7 miles

As we set up last night a deer entered our tensite looking for a chance to strike whilst our backs were turned + continued to circle our tent whilst we settled down for the night.

We woke up nice and early and I waded out into the lake up to my thighs fishing at 1st light. After no success we finished the dregs of our food supplies and headed to Shelter cove.
It was an easy hike in and after what seemed not long at all we were walking on tamac roads once again.
Shelter cove was located against lake Odell. A large lake lined with jetties and pontoons, filled with land locked salmon.
As we entered the camp ground we walked past some serious RV’s and motor homes all equipped with everything you might need. Including optional speed boats.
I have always questioned why Americans seemed more connected to the outdoors, but I think the answer is starring me in the face. With so many wide open scenic places over here, these kind of holiday destinations are more common and engrained into the American culture. At least that’s my spin anyways.

Anton was waiting next to the store and restuarant and kindly filled us in on all the things we needed to know. He arrived 12 hours before after hiking a 40 mile day. He had wanted to compete a 50, but had sensibly stopped after his acillis started hurting.
We showered, did laundry and picked up our resupply box, then followed by ordering pizza.

As I write this I have been sitting peacefully by the lake, fishing / speed boats roaring past me and thunder rumbling overhead. Its nice to have some time out away from the hustle n bustle of the trail and bit of time to myself.

We calculated we are taking too many zeros at the moment and as I write this we have calculated that unless we speed up and change gear them we won’t get through the Sierra by mid October.  We are gonna have think about changing how we write this blog as its taking too much time on top of all the other town activities. Maybe we’ll just start posting pics only or I’ll try and write up each night on trail, at least until we get back ahead of the game.

Anyways that’s all folkes.